(Written in the summer of 2003)
I was enamored to this place when I first saw it on a romantic ‘telesine’ last year. Hence, I dreamed to actually be there. The dream came true last summer.
A sojourn with my relatives to Ilocos Norte took us to Cape Bojeador Lighthouse. It is located in the town of Burgos, about 45 kilometers (28 miles) from the capital Laoag City. It faces the northwestern approach to the China Sea coast. It is reputed as the tallest in the country and in Asia. A local travelogue listed it as the most visited lighthouse in the Philippines.
At a distance the lighthouse basked under the hot afternoon sun towering majestically above a mountain. The steep road that leads to it was exhilarating. One is reminded of the treacherous Kennon road to Baguio City yet a sense of anticipation prevails as the beauty unravels as we get to the top.
Upon reaching the summit, we were greeted by a breathtaking view of the Ilocandia coast. As if transported back in time, each of us was assimilating the transcendental feel of the surrounding. As the breeze swept, I could almost hear the silent retelling of the ancient Ilocano myths and folklores. The view of the splashing waves below may have inspired the scenes from the epic of Lam-Ang.
Upon reaching the summit, we were greeted by a breathtaking view of the Ilocandia coast. As if transported back in time, each of us was assimilating the transcendental feel of the surrounding. As the breeze swept, I could almost hear the silent retelling of the ancient Ilocano myths and folklores. The view of the splashing waves below may have inspired the scenes from the epic of Lam-Ang.
My oblivious reverie was broken by the company of children (an 11 year old cousin and nephews ages 10 and 4 respectively) imploring me for us to get to the lighthouse. Even before I could say anything, the two older boys were hurrying ahead of us. Their innocent voices were filled with curious delight. My aunt and uncle both declined to come with us but because of different reasons: my uncle due to arthritis while my ‘psychic’ aunt due to some eerie feeling in her. Indeed, believe her or not, a mist of mystery permeates the place.
The actual lighthouse is imposing. Its tower is octagonal with a cylindrical lantern, attached to a brick keeper’s quarters. The structure resembles that of a fairy tale castle from Grimm. To my aunt however it may have looked like a haunted castle from Bram Stoker. Nevertheless, the place is enchanting.
We climbed about fifty steps to set foot on the lighthouse premises. One may easily imagine a young Henry Wadsworth Longfellow writing “The Lighthouse” or a poet sitting on its steps facing the sea; or a forlorn maiden staring at the horizon awaiting the return of her sea-faring lover.
The lighthouse is very old. A rusty iron grill matching the main gate protects the perimeter. In an adjacent area, a stonewall remnant may once stood a Spanish garrison. Yet, there was no proof to substantiate this. Only in my mind’s eye was I able to conjure up this idea by taking into account the vital role of such a structure in securing the cape from invaders.
We climbed about fifty steps to set foot on the lighthouse premises. One may easily imagine a young Henry Wadsworth Longfellow writing “The Lighthouse” or a poet sitting on its steps facing the sea; or a forlorn maiden staring at the horizon awaiting the return of her sea-faring lover.
The lighthouse is very old. A rusty iron grill matching the main gate protects the perimeter. In an adjacent area, a stonewall remnant may once stood a Spanish garrison. Yet, there was no proof to substantiate this. Only in my mind’s eye was I able to conjure up this idea by taking into account the vital role of such a structure in securing the cape from invaders.
Upon entering the gate, we were welcomed by a cobbled-stone courtyard. Walking along its expanse, I could almost hear the ancient echoes of ‘ball-and-shackles’ and of marching soldiers.
We were greeted by the amiable caretaker Mang Ruben (whom we addressed as “manong”) as we entered the lighthouse. Inside is a narrow hallway. Its polished brick flooring reverberates with the harrowing sound of an officer’s boots. The first room along this hallway, to the left, is a museum enshrined the history of Cape Bojeador. Old maps and sepia photographs of the lighthouse hang on the walls. A diorama of the lighthouse and the surrounding cape was set at the center of the room.
I learned that the lighthouse was built and established in 1892. It was originally called Faro de Cabo Bojeador. In 1990, an earthquake damaged parts of the structure yet it was fortunate that the whole structure did not crumble. Under the management of the Philippine Coast Guard, it is still operational.
The afternoon sun filtering through the windows gives a serene glow that complements the rustic ambiance of the room. The silence of the room was disturbed only by the excited voices of the kids inspite my incessant hushing. Being there and looking at the pictures one can be easily engulfed by a sense of nostalgia.
At the end of the hallway is a stairway that leads to the second level where a balcony offers the best view of the surrounding cape. I took some pictures of us with the splendid view at the background. Along the deck are solar panels that supply power to the lighthouse. According to Mang Ruben, who has been the lighthouse keeper since 1992, the light is automated but there is still a need for a resident keeper to maintain the facility.
We were greeted by the amiable caretaker Mang Ruben (whom we addressed as “manong”) as we entered the lighthouse. Inside is a narrow hallway. Its polished brick flooring reverberates with the harrowing sound of an officer’s boots. The first room along this hallway, to the left, is a museum enshrined the history of Cape Bojeador. Old maps and sepia photographs of the lighthouse hang on the walls. A diorama of the lighthouse and the surrounding cape was set at the center of the room.
I learned that the lighthouse was built and established in 1892. It was originally called Faro de Cabo Bojeador. In 1990, an earthquake damaged parts of the structure yet it was fortunate that the whole structure did not crumble. Under the management of the Philippine Coast Guard, it is still operational.
The afternoon sun filtering through the windows gives a serene glow that complements the rustic ambiance of the room. The silence of the room was disturbed only by the excited voices of the kids inspite my incessant hushing. Being there and looking at the pictures one can be easily engulfed by a sense of nostalgia.
At the end of the hallway is a stairway that leads to the second level where a balcony offers the best view of the surrounding cape. I took some pictures of us with the splendid view at the background. Along the deck are solar panels that supply power to the lighthouse. According to Mang Ruben, who has been the lighthouse keeper since 1992, the light is automated but there is still a need for a resident keeper to maintain the facility.
We wasted not a space to discover about the lighthouse except for the powerhouse which is off-limits to the public for obvious reasons. After we signed the guest book, Mang Ruben escorted us out while conveying our gratitude for a rewarding visit.
Outside, I took a last look at the premises. The lighthouse is indeed antique but is fast falling into ruins. The crumbling roof and gutters are unsightly. However the beauty and charm of the lighthouse remains. I just hope that its allure will not stop at awe and admiration from visitors. I wish we could do our part in the restoration of this historic landmark and preserve our heritage. Furthermore, it should remain as an active aid to navigation.
Earlier, I learned that there had been moves to make the private sector and non-governmental organizations (NGO) take an active part in the restoration of all lighthouses in the country through “Adopt A Lighthouse Project”. It is comforting to know that this particular lighthouse has its fostering from the local officials of the province of Ilocos Norte. But much is still to be done.
Outside, I took a last look at the premises. The lighthouse is indeed antique but is fast falling into ruins. The crumbling roof and gutters are unsightly. However the beauty and charm of the lighthouse remains. I just hope that its allure will not stop at awe and admiration from visitors. I wish we could do our part in the restoration of this historic landmark and preserve our heritage. Furthermore, it should remain as an active aid to navigation.
Earlier, I learned that there had been moves to make the private sector and non-governmental organizations (NGO) take an active part in the restoration of all lighthouses in the country through “Adopt A Lighthouse Project”. It is comforting to know that this particular lighthouse has its fostering from the local officials of the province of Ilocos Norte. But much is still to be done.
In our country were basic needs are hardly met and governmental budget for social services are insufficient, we care less to spend on cultural and historical restoration projects. We yet to fully realize the value of heritage preservation is as essential in nation building. It is apparent that in developed countries there is a strong sense of cultural identity. The historic and heritage wealth of a country are fundamental in establishing the identity of its people. Progress follows through the collective effort of its people secured and united in its identity as a nation.
I let the kids go before me. Left alone, I let myself in a moment of serenity. I reached down for a coin and deliberately dropped it on the cobbled-stone (since there was no wishing well). The sound reverberated as the coin hit the ground. I wish someday to return to this place and I hope there’ll be more help to come to retain the legacy of this lighthouse.
We were met by my aunt and uncle at the foot of the hill and took some more pictures. I coaxingly, amidst their protest, choreographed my aunt and uncle in a romantic poise ‘ala-telesine’. With the lighthouse as an appropriate backdrop, it serves as a symbolic pillar of strength and stability. It is a novelty in our time to see couples in their prime haggle together in affection. It was the hopeless romantic in me.
We abandoned the place shortly before dusk. As we drove away, I looked back to take a last glimpse of the lighthouse. A golden glimmer from the setting sun now shrouds it. The sight was melancholic. I then looked at my four-year-old nephew whose head quietly rest on my lap exhausted from the day’s journey. I tried to reflect the impact of this visit on him. I wish he already understand the significance of preserving a historical place. I wonder if he will be able to visit it again when he is old enough to appreciate its beauty. In its present state of deterioration, it may no longer be there. Yet, I am hopeful that such a beautiful place will withstand the ravages of time because I believe that we Pinoys are inherently sentimental. Forget about government not spending on “non-essential” projects such as preservation, there’ll be always be people (institutions even) out there to see to it and that these heritage sites are worth preserving for the generations to come.
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