I was born, raised and lived in the city. I am what they call a ‘true-blue’ Manileño, someone who is indigenous to the capital city of the Philippines. Although I could trace my roots from various provinces, I neither speak any dialect other than Tagalog nor have experienced life anywhere there. My grandparents from both side of the family are from Manila. In fact, my ancestral home is still here. Hence, my cultural identity is established here in the city.
We Manileños maybe indigenous to the city but we do share this city with other dwellers who may have migrated from other places or to temporarily reside here such as transient workers and students. Regardless of our roots, cultural and ethnic backgrounds, we make our living here. We move about in a constant rush as if time is always running-out on us.
Here in the city we are used to the hustle and bustle. We struggle to manage the stresses and adapt to the fast-paced lifestyle. Yet the crowding and noise still do get to our nerves, we oftentimes just ignore and learn to live with it on a daily basis. But during Semana Santa the city takes a break from the daily grind and noisy confusions of life.
Semana Santa or Holy Week is the annual commemoration of the passion, death and resurrection of Christ. As the Philippines is predominantly Catholic, it is noteworthy that significant holidays here are ‘holydays’ as it is religious in nature. As were during the Christmas Season and All Saints Day (secularly celebrated as Halloween), longer vacations are being declared during the Holy Week. This is to give ample time for those going to their respective hometowns to be with their family or be gone to some place away from the city for that much needed break.
Thus, life practically stops in the capital city Manila. Or at least in areas that are usually bustling with activity the rest of the year. While the hustle and bustle are diverted to other places in the country, the city is left to rest from the daily chores. It takes its time to recuperate from the wear and tear of everyday grind. In fact, essential maintenance works are being conducted on facilities and infrastructures within city limits. As the population disperses away from here, commercial and business establishments are closed as well as entertainment venues to blend in with the solemn (if not somber) ambiance prevailing during this time.
As our fellow citizen has gone home or has taken their vacation away from the city, us Manileños are left on our own. This is however a welcome break for us, too. There is nothing like this city on Holy Week. Try driving during this time and experience the ease as the main thorough ways are devoid of the usual traffic. Although parking spaces are scarce in crowded churches, most opt not to bring vehicles and instead walk the distance as a way of self-sacrifice in keeping with the theme of the occasion.
The standstill in the city however excludes the happenings in the churches within it. As mentioned, churches are crowded during this time. Maybe not as grandiose as the celebrations in the provinces, the religious activities in the city are not stark or lacking in pomp and pageantry. Just visit any local parish nearby and you will be at awe at the preparation of the parishioners.
Even in the city, Holy Week is being observed with much solemnity. Starting with Palm Sunday when it commemorates Jesus’ triumphal entry into Jerusalem, people carries palm branches or ornately weaved coco palms (which is more indigenous to our country) amidst the hymn of “Hosanna, to the Son of David!”
On Holy Monday to Holy Wednesday, some families or the neighborhood organizes a public chanting of the Pasyong Mahal Ni Hesus, a local adaptation of the story of Christ written in poetic verses, as a way of panata or vow of tribute to God. Unlike in the provinces, here in Manila, the chanting of this aged literary tradition had taken a more modern rhythm and sound in recent years credited to the much younger generation of chanters. Likewise, some amateur or professional theater groups, mostly from the youth sector, stage a Cenakulo which is a dramatization of the passion of Christ. Various observances such as praying and reflecting on the Via Crucis or Way of the Cross are done individually, together or communally.
Penitents are common sight in the provinces yet uncommon here in the city. Yet a few of them can be seen in the city streets during the Holy Week. With covered faces, bare-footed with bloodied backs and chest from their own lashing, these flagellants walk in public demonstration of remorse. Others carry wooden crosses in imitation of Christ. Despite the church’s disapproval of this violent act as atonement for sins, this has become a folk ritual among men (some women, even) believing this as an effective way to cleanse one’s conscience.
In the city during this week, spiritual recollections or retreats are commonly held for those wanting to have a more spiritual experience. These gatherings are the modern-day Lenten practices common in the urban areas. Even some of the non-Catholic denominations have their own church activities that are somehow in keeping with the Lenten theme. They hold special bible study and worship hours that focuses on Christ’s suffering and resurrection. Other Christian communities invite the faithful for a film-showing about the life and times of Christ or gather for the Easter worship.
On Maundy Thursday morning, an exclusive mass is held at the local Cathedral by priests and bishops called the Chrism Mass wherein the oils use for the sacraments are consecrated. In the afternoon, the Mass in celebration of Jesus’ last supper with His apostles is held. After which the
Visita Iglesia starts, wherein the faithful keeps vigil throughout the night by visiting several churches while in prayer and reflection on the agony of Christ’s last hours.
On Good Friday, the church commemorates Jesus’ death on the cross. The faithful gather to listen to the reflections on the Seven Last Words that the dying Christ uttered on the cross. The readings and reflections start at high noon until three o’clock in the afternoon to coincide with the three hours that Christ suffered while hanging on the cross. This is done in many churches or in certain venues that can accommodate the public. However, local TV and radio networks do broadcast these events as part of their Lenten programming so that families in their homes can listen to the lessons from scriptures, the reflections and join in the prayers. Indeed, the city’s technical amenities extend to give spiritual ease. Later, the faithful gathers to worship in churches for the veneration of the Holy Cross.
In most churches, a procession is held to reenact the burial of Christ. Simulated to look and feel like a real funeral march an image of the Santo Sepulcro or dead Christ is carried accompanied by the image of the Virgin Mary dressed in mourning garments as Mater Dolorosa or Mother of Sorrows. Effigies of the biblical characters present at the death of Christ are included such as St. John the Beloved Apostle and St. Mary Magdalene. Maybe not as elaborate as those held in the provinces, these processions are likewise an awesome sight as they pass through the city streets.
In some churches, another procession begins after the supposed interment of Christ. This is called La Soledad. Bearing another image of the Virgin Mary, this time as Our Lady of the Solitude, still dressed in mourning but her image alone is carried in this procession. Only few churches here in Manila hold this procession as it seems to be a ritual redundancy as the previous procession already included the Virgin Mary. Moreover, the extra time and distance of walk may not be practical for the faithful. However, some of them don’t mind the extra distance to walk further as a penitential devotion.
On Black Saturday, most churches are closed and no religious activity until the evening. If not, people can still come in to make their private devotions or be alone in prayer and meditation. The general atmosphere is quite but with silent excitement in anticipation of the Easter vigil by evening.
There can never be as solemn as the Easter Vigil. As the faithful gather at the church courtyard, a bonfire is blessed and from it the Paschal candle is lit to symbolize Christ as the light of the world. This candle is carried slowly in procession inside the darkened church as the faithful follows. From this single flame, the other candles held by the people are lighted until the dark church is illumined by tongues of fire. It is an exhilarating sight to behold. Until finally, all the lights inside are put on while the church bells peal in tidings of Christ’s resurrection amidst the singing of the Alleluia.
On Easter Sunday morning, the ‘Salubong’ is held. It is a re-enactment of the supposed encounter of the risen Christ with his mother, the Virgin Mary. However, this is more folkloric than liturgical since this is without Gospel basis. Thus, this is not part of the Church’s liturgical celebration. Yet, it is a most fitting presentation in culmination to the drama of Holy Week.
Holy Week rituals and traditions here in the city are the same as those in the rest of the country. The difference lies with the fact that less of the population are here to observe it. The peace and quite helps create a more conducive atmosphere for prayer and meditation. I observed that even in crowded churches, city dwellers come and spend time not minding the little inconveniences such as the heat of summer. Some manage to be more patient with petty annoyances such as waiting in line or looking for parking space. Perhaps the prayerful atmosphere that pervades the city during this time makes for a kinder attitude towards one another.
Incidentally, crime in the city is lowest or none at all during the holy days, particularly on Good Friday. Afterall, criminals have conscience too! Or many of them do fear God. Either way, the streets of our city is safe yet we can’t be too careful. We still have to be cautious even when going to church and making our Lenten observance.
During this time, amidst the seemingly ‘Godless’ reputation of the city, it somewhat shows that God still reigns. Despite the greater secularism and commercialism that characterize the city, our cultural and spiritual wealth is evident in the Holy Week observance as it is in the provinces.
I remember as a child, I get a bit envious of my peers when they tell each other where they are going to spend their Holy Week, which is actually the end of the scholastic year and start of the summer vacation here in the Philippines. Some of them have hometowns outside Manila such as Bulacan and Cavite while others as far away as Bicol, the Visayas or Mindanao. Those who can afford takes leisure break at resorts or beaches in the provinces or even go abroad. Others go for less expensive excursions such as camping, hiking and picnic in places outside the city. It’s been like that ever since I can remember. Even today, I and the rest of my family were never part of the massive exodus of the population going away from the city during this time. I yet to experience Lent somewhere other than here.
You see, I was raised in a family tradition that stays at home during Holy Week. It was a no-no for us to spend time away from home particularly to enjoy in a leisure resort or have fun at the beach. We have nothing against those who do so during this week. Perhaps, as young as I was, my superficial perception was that it was disrespectful to God when one has to enjoy while we should be commemorating the suffering of Christ. Later, as I realized the greater significance and meaning of Lent, I accepted that it doesn’t matter where you are during Holy Week but how you are one in the spirit of the occasion.
Before, I am at awe at the Lenten practices in the provinces for their extravagant display of devotion and piety. I still am at that. Yet I now appreciate the more subtle ways of observing the Holy Week here in the city. The chance to be still and make a spiritual assessment is as valuable as how we do the practices of faith.
So, wherever we are during the Holy Week, we should take time to stop and ponder the significance of this occasion. Anyplace we are, we should allow time, no matter how brief, to pray, reflect and contemplate the spiritual journey we take in our own life. It is also the best opportunity to be with our family and those dear to us; share moments with friends and express our kindness to anyone who needs. Truly, God’s love and mercy is manifested through each of us. This is what our Lenten celebration is about: to live in a loving relationship with God and our fellowmen.
Have a blessed and happy Easter!
